Siena Food Culture
Traditional dishes, dining customs, and culinary experiences
Culinary Culture
Siena's food culture is defined by unwavering loyalty to medieval Tuscan peasant traditions, centered around handmade pici pasta, wild game, and Cinta Senese pork. The city's cuisine reflects its contrade system, where neighborhood pride extends to recipe variations and feast traditions that have remained virtually unchanged for centuries. Unlike other Tuscan cities, Siena has resisted culinary modernization, making it one of Italy's most authentic repositories of historical cooking techniques.
Traditional Dishes
Must-try local specialties that define Siena's culinary heritage
Pici all'Aglione (Hand-rolled pasta with tomato and garlic sauce)
Thick, hand-rolled pasta strands similar to thick spaghetti, served with a rustic sauce made from aglione (a giant, mild garlic variety specific to the Val di Chiana). The sauce is deceptively simple - just tomatoes, aglione, olive oil, and peperoncino - but the thick pasta's chewy texture and the sweet-savory sauce create an unforgettable combination. Each strand of pici is rolled by hand without eggs, using only flour and water.
Pici dates back to Etruscan times and was the everyday pasta of Sienese farmers who couldn't afford eggs. The aglione garlic variety was rediscovered in the 1990s after nearly disappearing, making this dish both ancient and newly revived.
Pappardelle al Cinghiale (Wide pasta ribbons with wild boar ragù)
Wide, flat egg pasta ribbons served with a rich, slow-cooked wild boar sauce that simmers for hours with red wine, tomatoes, and aromatic vegetables. The wild boar meat becomes incredibly tender and develops deep, gamey flavors that are balanced by the wine's acidity. This is the quintessential Sienese pasta dish, especially popular during autumn and winter hunting seasons.
Wild boar have populated the forests around Siena since ancient times, and hunting them has been both necessity and sport for centuries. This dish represents the marriage of forest and farm that defines Tuscan mountain cooking.
Ribollita (Twice-cooked bread and vegetable soup)
A hearty, thick soup made with cannellini beans, black kale (cavolo nero), vegetables, and stale unsalted Tuscan bread that's 'reboiled' (ribollita means 'reboiled') the day after making it. The bread dissolves into the soup, creating an almost stew-like consistency. It's traditionally served at room temperature or lukewarm, drizzled with peppery extra virgin olive oil.
Born from the medieval practice of servants collecting leftover bread and vegetables from noble households, ribollita exemplifies cucina povera. The dish is actually better on the second day, which is when the reboiling traditionally occurred.
Bistecca di Cinta Senese (Cinta Senese pork chop)
A thick-cut chop from the indigenous Cinta Senese pig breed, recognizable by the white 'belt' (cinta) around their shoulders. The meat is darker and more marbled than standard pork, with a rich, almost sweet flavor. Typically grilled simply with salt, pepper, and rosemary to showcase the meat's exceptional quality.
The Cinta Senese breed appears in Siena's medieval frescoes and has been raised in these hills since before Roman times. Nearly extinct by the 1990s, the breed has been revived and is now a protected DOP product.
Panzanella (Tuscan bread salad)
A refreshing summer salad made with soaked stale bread, ripe tomatoes, red onions, basil, and cucumber, all dressed with olive oil and red wine vinegar. The bread absorbs the tomato juices and dressing while maintaining some texture. It's a perfect example of how Tuscan cuisine wastes nothing and transforms simple ingredients into something greater.
This dish dates back to the 16th century and was originally made by farmers working in the fields who needed something filling and refreshing that wouldn't spoil in the heat. The use of stale bread reflects the Tuscan reverence for their pane.
Crostini Neri (Chicken liver crostini)
Small toasts topped with a dark, rich spread made from chicken livers, capers, anchovies, and sometimes spleen, all cooked with vin santo wine. The spread has an intense, savory flavor that's both earthy and slightly sweet. These are served as part of an antipasto course or before meals.
A staple of Tuscan cuisine that appears at every traditional feast and family gathering. The recipe varies by family, with some versions passed down for generations as closely guarded secrets.
Pici Cacio e Pepe Senese (Pici with pecorino and black pepper)
Hand-rolled pici pasta tossed with aged pecorino cheese from the Crete Senesi and coarsely ground black pepper. The starchy pasta water creates a creamy sauce that coats each thick strand. While similar to the Roman version, the Sienese use their local pecorino and thicker pici pasta for a heartier dish.
This represents the Sienese adaptation of a Roman classic, showcasing the local pecorino that has been produced in the clay hills south of the city for over a thousand years.
Panforte (Spiced fruit and nut cake)
A dense, chewy medieval confection made with honey, nuts (almonds and hazelnuts), candied fruits, and a blend of spices including cinnamon, coriander, and cloves. It's dusted with powdered sugar and cut into thin wedges. The texture is somewhere between nougat and fruitcake, and a small piece goes a long way.
Dating back to the year 1205, panforte was originally created by nuns and apothecaries. It was a luxury item made with expensive spices brought back from the Crusades, and its long shelf life made it valuable for travelers.
Ricciarelli (Almond cookies)
Soft, chewy almond cookies made with almond paste, sugar, and egg whites, flavored with orange zest and vanilla. They have a distinctive diamond or oval shape and are dusted with powdered sugar. The texture is delicate and slightly moist, unlike crisp Italian biscotti.
Legend says these cookies were brought to Siena by a nobleman named Ricciardetto della Gherardesca returning from the Crusades, though they likely evolved from Arab marzipan traditions in medieval Sicily.
Acquacotta (Cooked water soup)
A simple soup of onions, tomatoes, celery, and stale bread, topped with a poached egg and grated pecorino. Despite its humble name meaning 'cooked water,' the dish is deeply satisfying, with the egg yolk enriching the broth when broken. It represents the ultimate expression of cucina povera.
Created by Maremma shepherds and charcoal burners who had little more than wild vegetables, stale bread, and olive oil. Each spoonful tells the story of making something from almost nothing.
Cavallucci (Anise and walnut cookies)
Dome-shaped cookies made with honey, walnuts, candied orange peel, anise, and coriander. They're harder and more rustic than ricciarelli, with a distinctive spiced flavor. Traditionally enjoyed dunked in vin santo wine.
The name means 'little horses,' possibly because they were sold at horse fairs or because their shape resembled horse hooves. They've been a Sienese specialty since the 1500s.
Scottiglia (Mixed meat stew)
A rustic hunter's stew made with multiple meats (traditionally whatever was hunted that day - rabbit, chicken, pork, sometimes wild boar) cooked slowly with red wine, tomatoes, and herbs. The meats are cut into small pieces and cooked until fall-apart tender, creating a rich, complex sauce perfect for soaking up with bread.
This dish originated from hunting parties where each hunter contributed part of their catch to a communal pot. The name comes from 'scottare' (to scorch), referring to the initial searing of the meat.
Taste Siena's Best Flavors
A food tour is the fastest way to find good spots. Sample traditional dishes and learn from guides who know the neighborhood.
Browse Food ToursDining Etiquette
Dining in Siena follows traditional Tuscan customs with some unique local touches. Meals are taken seriously as social occasions, and the city's strong contrade culture means food traditions are observed with particular reverence. Understanding local etiquette will enhance your experience and show respect for Sienese culinary traditions.
Meal Structure and Pacing
Traditional Sienese meals follow a structured progression: antipasto (appetizer), primo (first course - pasta or soup), secondo (main course - meat or fish), contorno (side dish), and dolce (dessert). You're not obligated to order every course, but ordering just a primo or secondo is perfectly acceptable. Meals are leisurely affairs, especially dinner, and rushing is considered rude.
Do
- Take your time and enjoy the meal at a relaxed pace
- Order a primo and secondo if you're hungry, or just one if you prefer
- Wait for everyone at the table to be served before eating
- Keep your hands visible on the table (not in your lap)
Don't
- Don't ask for the check until you're completely finished
- Don't expect to share plates family-style unless at a casual establishment
- Don't ask for substitutions or major modifications to traditional dishes
- Don't rush the meal or seem impatient with service
Bread and Olive Oil
Tuscan bread is famously unsalted (pane sciocco), which takes getting used to but is designed to balance the salty, flavorful dishes it accompanies. Bread is provided free at the table with a small cover charge (coperto) of €1.50-3. Olive oil for dipping is not a traditional Tuscan custom - bread is meant to be eaten plain or used to make 'scarpetta' (wiping up sauce from your plate).
Do
- Use bread to soak up sauces from your plate (scarpetta)
- Expect to pay a coperto (cover charge) that includes bread and table setting
- Try the unsalted bread with salty dishes to understand its purpose
Don't
- Don't expect olive oil and balsamic for dipping (not a local custom)
- Don't fill up on bread before your meal arrives
- Don't ask for butter with your bread
Wine and Beverages
Wine is an integral part of Sienese dining. Local wines like Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are sources of pride. House wine (vino della casa) is usually excellent quality and good value. Water (both still and sparkling) is typically ordered bottled, not tap.
Do
- Order local Tuscan wines to complement your meal
- Try the house wine, which is often from nearby vineyards
- Specify 'naturale' (still) or 'frizzante' (sparkling) when ordering water
- Finish your wine before ordering coffee
Don't
- Don't order cappuccino after 11am or with meals
- Don't ask for tap water initially (though 'acqua del rubinetto' is acceptable if requested)
- Don't mix wine and coffee - espresso comes after the meal
- Don't expect free water refills
Reservations and Seating
Reservations are highly recommended for dinner, especially on weekends and during Palio season (July and August). Walk-ins for lunch are usually more feasible. Once seated, the table is yours for the duration of the meal - there's no pressure to leave quickly. Many restaurants have specific seating times (typically 7:30pm or 8pm for dinner).
Do
- Make reservations for dinner, especially in high season
- Arrive on time for your reservation
- Confirm your reservation if you're running late
- Be prepared to wait if arriving without a reservation
Don't
- Don't expect to be seated immediately without a reservation at popular places
- Don't request to change tables unless there's a legitimate problem
- Don't arrive expecting dinner service before 7pm
- Don't expect rapid table turnover - meals take time
Breakfast
Breakfast (colazione) is typically 7:30-10:30am and is a light affair. Most Sienese have a cappuccino and cornetto (croissant) at a bar, standing at the counter. Hotels may offer more substantial buffets, but traditional breakfast is sweet, never savory, and meant to be quick.
Lunch
Lunch (pranzo) runs 12:30-2:30pm and was traditionally the main meal, though this is changing. Many restaurants close between lunch and dinner (typically 2:30-7pm). Lunch can be a full multi-course meal or something simpler like pasta and salad. Workers often take a proper lunch break, though the long midday closure is less common in touristy areas.
Dinner
Dinner (cena) begins around 7:30-8pm (earlier for tourists, later for locals) and runs until 10:30pm or later. This is the main social meal and can last 2-3 hours. Arriving before 7:30pm may mean the kitchen isn't open yet. Dinner is when families and friends gather for the full traditional meal structure.
Tipping Guide
Restaurants: Service charge (servizio) is sometimes included in the bill. If not, tipping 5-10% is appreciated but not obligatory. Leaving €1-2 per person for good service is common. Italians rarely tip more than 10%, and over-tipping can seem ostentatious.
Cafes: Leave small change (€0.20-0.50) on the counter when having coffee at the bar. If sitting at a table, round up the bill or leave €1. Table service costs more than bar service (often double the price).
Bars: Leave coins (€0.50-1) when ordering drinks at the counter. If table service is provided, round up the bill. Bartenders don't expect tips for each drink like in North America.
The coperto (cover charge) is NOT a tip - it's a standard charge for bread and table service. Credit card machines may ask if you want to add a tip, but this is optional. Cash tips left on the table are more traditional and appreciated.
Street Food
Siena doesn't have a significant street food culture in the modern sense of food trucks or street vendors. The city's medieval layout and strict preservation laws limit mobile food operations. However, there's a thriving culture of 'cibo da passeggio' (food for walking) centered around bakeries, wine windows (buchette del vino), and porchetta stands. The real Sienese street food experience happens during festivals, particularly the Palio, when contrade societies set up temporary outdoor kitchens. The closest equivalent to street food is found in the city's many alimentari (grocery shops) and forni (bakeries) that sell items to take away. These include schiacciata sandwiches, pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice), and various pastries. The Mercato Centrale area and streets around Piazza del Campo have the highest concentration of grab-and-go options. During market days, you'll find porchetta vendors and occasionally seasonal items like roasted chestnuts in winter.
Porchetta Sandwich
Slow-roasted whole pig seasoned with garlic, rosemary, and fennel, sliced and served on crusty bread. The meat is incredibly juicy with crispy skin (cotenna) that adds texture. It's savory, herbal, and deeply satisfying.
Porchetta trucks at Mercato Centrale on Wednesday mornings, occasionally near Piazza del Campo, and at festivals
€5-7Schiacciata Ripiena (Stuffed flatbread)
Tuscan flatbread similar to focaccia, split and filled with prosciutto, pecorino, arugula, or other fillings. The bread is slightly crispy outside and soft inside, often brushed with olive oil.
Forni (bakeries) and alimentari throughout the historic center, especially along Via di Città
€4-6Pizza al Taglio (Pizza by the slice)
Rectangular pizza sold by weight, with toppings like margherita, potato and rosemary, or seasonal vegetables. It's thicker than Neapolitan pizza and designed to be eaten while walking.
Bakeries and pizza shops near Piazza del Campo and throughout the city center
€3-5 per portionCantuccini e Vin Santo
Hard almond biscotti meant to be dunked in sweet Vin Santo dessert wine. Not quite street food, but many wine bars serve this combination standing at the counter for a quick afternoon treat.
Wine bars (enoteche) and pastry shops throughout the city
€3-5Castagnaccio (Chestnut flour cake)
A dense, flat cake made from chestnut flour, olive oil, pine nuts, and rosemary. It's naturally gluten-free, slightly sweet, and has an earthy flavor. Available in autumn and winter.
Bakeries during chestnut season (October-February)
€2-3 per sliceBest Areas for Street Food
Mercato Centrale (La Lizza)
Known for: Wednesday morning market with porchetta stands, fresh produce, and occasional food vendors. The covered market hall has shops selling cheese, salumi, and prepared foods.
Best time: Wednesday mornings from 7am-1pm
Via di Città and Via Banchi di Sopra
Known for: Historic center streets lined with bakeries, alimentari, and pastry shops perfect for grabbing panini, pizza al taglio, and sweets to go.
Best time: Lunch hours (12:30-2pm) and mid-afternoon (4-6pm)
Around Piazza del Campo
Known for: Highest concentration of cafes and shops selling portable food. During Palio (July 2 and August 16), temporary food stalls appear throughout the piazza.
Best time: Throughout the day, especially during Palio festivities
Contrade Neighborhoods
Known for: During Palio season, each contrada sets up outdoor dining areas for members. While private, the atmosphere and smells of traditional cooking fill the streets.
Best time: Days leading up to and following the Palio races in July and August
Dining by Budget
Siena offers dining options across all price ranges, though it's generally more expensive than larger Italian cities due to its small size and tourist appeal. The best value comes from eating where locals eat - traditional trattorias slightly off the main tourist routes. Quality ingredients are prioritized over quantity, so even budget meals maintain high standards. The coperto (cover charge) of €1.50-3 per person is standard at all sit-down restaurants.
Budget-Friendly
Typical meal: €8-15 per meal
- Eat at the bar counter rather than sitting at tables - prices are often 50% less
- Look for 'menu del giorno' or 'menu turistico' at lunch for fixed-price meals (€12-18)
- Shop at the Wednesday market for fresh produce and cheese
- Buy wine at alimentari or supermarkets to drink with picnics (€5-10 per bottle)
- Order 'acqua del rubinetto' (tap water) instead of bottled to save €2-3
- Visit pastry shops in late afternoon for discounted day-old items
- Take advantage of aperitivo hour - one drink gets you access to buffet snacks
- Avoid restaurants directly on Piazza del Campo where prices are 30-50% higher
Mid-Range
Typical meal: €20-35 per meal
Splurge
Dietary Considerations
Siena's traditional cuisine is heavily meat-based, but the city is increasingly accommodating to various dietary needs, especially vegetarian requirements. The strong agricultural tradition means vegetables, legumes, and grains play important roles in local cooking. However, veganism and specialized diets require more planning, and communication is key. Most restaurants are willing to accommodate if you explain your needs clearly.
Vegetarian & Vegan
Vegetarian options are widely available, as many traditional Tuscan dishes are naturally vegetarian (ribollita, panzanella, pici cacio e pepe, various soups). Veganism is more challenging but increasingly possible, especially at restaurants catering to younger crowds or health-conscious diners. Traditional restaurants may struggle with vegan requests as butter, cheese, and eggs are fundamental to many dishes.
Local options: Ribollita (vegetable and bread soup), Panzanella (bread salad, summer only), Pici all'aglione (pasta with tomato-garlic sauce), Acquacotta without egg, Fagioli all'uccelletto (beans in tomato sauce), Crostini with mushrooms or vegetables, Verdure grigliate (grilled vegetables), Pappa al pomodoro (tomato and bread soup)
- Ask 'È vegetariano?' (Is it vegetarian?) or 'È vegano?' (Is it vegan?)
- Be aware that many soups and sauces contain meat broth or lard
- Pasta is often made with eggs - ask for 'pasta senza uova'
- Pecorino cheese appears in many dishes - specify 'senza formaggio' if vegan
- Look for restaurants with 'cucina vegetariana' on their signs
- Buffet-style aperitivo often has vegetarian options clearly visible
Food Allergies
Common allergens: Wheat (in pasta, bread, and most soups), Eggs (in fresh pasta and many desserts), Dairy (pecorino cheese is ubiquitous), Nuts (especially almonds in desserts like ricciarelli and panforte), Pork products (including lard used in cooking), Anchovies (hidden in sauces and crostini)
Italian restaurants take allergies seriously. Inform your server immediately upon sitting down. Written cards in Italian explaining your allergy are helpful. Many servers speak some English, but having your allergy written in Italian ensures clarity with the kitchen. Don't rely on menu descriptions alone - always confirm ingredients.
Useful phrase: Sono allergico/allergica a... (I am allergic to...). Key terms: glutine (gluten), frutta secca (nuts), latticini (dairy), uova (eggs), pesce (fish), crostacei (shellfish). 'Ho un'allergia grave' means 'I have a severe allergy.'
Halal & Kosher
Halal and kosher options are very limited in Siena. There are no certified halal or kosher restaurants in the city center. The Muslim and Jewish communities are small, and specialized food shops are rare.
Your best options are vegetarian/seafood dishes at traditional restaurants, or self-catering with ingredients from the Wednesday market. Some international restaurants (Middle Eastern, if available) may have halal options. Florence (1 hour away) has more halal and kosher establishments if this is essential to your trip.
Gluten-Free
Gluten-free dining has improved significantly in recent years. Many restaurants offer gluten-free pasta (pasta senza glutine) and some have gluten-free bread. Italian celiac awareness is high due to the prevalence of the condition. Pharmacies sell gluten-free products.
Naturally gluten-free: Bistecca di Cinta Senese (grilled pork chop), Scottiglia (meat stew, without bread), Verdure grigliate (grilled vegetables), Fagioli all'uccelletto (beans in tomato sauce), Castagnaccio (chestnut flour cake), Most grilled meats and fish, Cheese and salumi plates, Insalata mista (mixed salad)
Food Markets
Experience local food culture at markets and food halls
Mercato Centrale (La Lizza Market)
The main market in Siena, featuring both a permanent covered structure and a large outdoor Wednesday market. You'll find fresh produce from local farms, cheeses, salumi, porchetta stands, flowers, and household goods. The atmosphere is authentically local with vendors calling out their specials and shoppers examining produce carefully.
Best for: Fresh produce, local pecorino cheese, salumi, porchetta sandwiches, seasonal items like porcini mushrooms and truffles (autumn), and observing local shopping culture
Covered market: Monday-Saturday 7am-1pm. Large outdoor market: Wednesday 7am-1pm (this is the main market day)
Consorzio Agrario di Siena
A unique institution that's part farmers' cooperative, part gourmet shop, and part department store. The food section offers exceptional local products at fair prices - wines, olive oil, pecorino, salumi, pasta, and pantry items. It's where locals shop for quality ingredients and gifts to bring home.
Best for: High-quality local products to take home, olive oil directly from producers, aged pecorino, local wines at good prices, and authentic Sienese food products without tourist markup
Monday-Saturday 8:30am-1pm and 3:30-7:30pm, located at Via Pianigiani 9
Alimentari and Salumerie
Small neighborhood shops throughout the historic center selling cheese, cured meats, fresh pasta, and prepared foods. These are family-run establishments where staff will slice your prosciutto to order and recommend wine pairings. Many will make sandwiches to order.
Best for: Picnic supplies, fresh pasta to cook in vacation rentals, perfectly aged pecorino, locally cured meats, and personalized service with recommendations
Generally Monday-Saturday 8am-1pm and 4-7:30pm, many close Wednesday afternoons and Sundays
Enoteca Italiana (Fortezza Medicea)
Located in the historic Medici fortress, this is Italy's official repository of Italian wines with over 1,500 labels. While primarily a wine shop and tasting venue, they also sell high-quality local food products. The atmospheric brick cellars make browsing an experience.
Best for: Exploring Tuscan wines, professional guidance on wine selection, wine tastings, and purchasing wines that are difficult to find elsewhere
Monday 3-8pm, Tuesday-Saturday 12pm-8pm, closed Sunday
Pasticcerie (Pastry Shops)
Historic pastry shops specializing in traditional Sienese sweets like panforte, ricciarelli, and cavallucci. Many have been family-run for generations and use recipes unchanged for centuries. These are not just shops but cultural institutions.
Best for: Authentic Sienese desserts, panforte in various styles, ricciarelli made fresh daily, cavallucci, and beautifully packaged sweets for gifts
Generally daily 8am-7:30pm, some close Monday mornings. Notable shops are found along Via di Città and near Piazza del Campo
Seasonal Eating
Siena's cuisine follows the agricultural calendar closely, with dishes and ingredients appearing and disappearing based on what the surrounding countryside produces. The Crete Senesi clay hills and Val d'Orcia valley provide distinct seasonal bounty, from spring's wild herbs to autumn's mushrooms and chestnuts. Menus change significantly with the seasons, and trying to order certain dishes out of season will mark you as a tourist. The Palio races in July and August also dictate seasonal eating patterns, with special feast dishes prepared in each contrada.
Spring (March-May)
- Wild asparagus and artichokes appear on menus
- Fresh fava beans and peas from local farms
- New olive oil from the previous autumn's harvest
- Easter specialties including lamb dishes
- Fresh pecorino cheese (marzolino) made from spring milk
- Wild herbs like borage and nettles in soups and pasta
Summer (June-August)
- Palio season brings special contrada feasts and celebrations
- Tomatoes at peak ripeness for panzanella and pappa al pomodoro
- Zucchini and their flowers for frying
- Peaches, apricots, and melons from local orchards
- Outdoor dining becomes the norm
- Cold soups and salads replace heavier winter dishes
Autumn (September-November)
- Porcini mushroom season (September-October)
- White truffle season begins in late October
- Wild boar hunting season opens
- Olive harvest and new oil pressing (November)
- Chestnuts from mountain forests
- Grape harvest and new wine celebrations
- Return of hearty stews and ragùs
Winter (December-February)
- Hearty soups and stews dominate menus
- Black kale (cavolo nero) is at its best after frost
- Truffles continue through January
- Holiday sweets like panforte and ricciarelli
- Slow-cooked meat dishes and ragùs
- Citrus from southern Italy appears in desserts